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White-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis UEA Sao Tome Expedition 1990 http://www.ggcg.st/birds/stp_birds.htm

The Gulf of Guinea islands

Nestling in the armpit of Africa the four islands of Bioko, Príncipe, São Tomé and Annobón have been virtually ignored by birders and have been the preserve of expeditions and the more ambitious bird-tour companies. This is surprising given that the islands offer some of Africa`s most spectacular scenery and, although you will not see hundreds of species, the number of endemics is truly impressive - 26 on São Tomé and Príncipe alone. These range from the incredible Giant Sunbird through to the São Tomé Short-tail, a bird unlike any other with its own genus. Several species, including the Dwarf Olive Ibis, São Tomé Fiscal Shrike and São Tomé Grosbeak have been seen by less than ten living birders! However with a bit of adventure these species may be seen in the remote southwestern forests of São Tomé. Coupled with the birds the people are amongst the friendliest in Africa, the scenery is spectacular and the many beaches are wonderful. It is an ideal place to spend some time.

Geography and Biodiversity
These volcanic islands form a line of extinct volcanoes, starting with Annobón in the southwest and reaching up northeastwards to Mount Cameroon and beyond. The two middle islands in the chain, São Tomé and Príncipe, form the Democratic Republic of São Tomé and Príncipe. Bioko, the biggest island and the closest to mainland, and Annobón, the smallest and more inaccessible, are part of Equatorial Guinea.

Bioko is part of the continental shelf and was only isolated from the mainland 11,000 years ago. It has, therefore, a rich fauna and flora of continental origin, but low levels of bird endemism although for it size it has one of the highest diversity of primates in the world. Príncipe, São Tomé and Annobón are oceanic islands and have never been connected to mainland or to each other. Their fauna and flora having evolved independently is characterised by high levels of endemism. Even the extremely small Annobón (9x3 km) has two endemic land birds, the Annobón White-eye and the Annobón Paradise Flycatcher, shares the endemic Bronze-naped Pigeon with São Tomé and Príncipe, and hosts a sub-species of the African Scops Owl. São Tomé and Príncipe are undoubtedly the stars of the pack, with more than twice the number of endemic birds that could be predicted by area alone.

Access
All the islands can be visited, although access to Annobón is really only possible from mainland Equatorial Guinea or by private yacht charter from São Tomé. Access to São Tomé is via TAP Air Portugal flights, which depart from Lisbon, or with Air Gabon, which departs from Libreville. Libreville is connected to most African cities and to Europe, via Paris. Access to Príncipe is by air via São Tomé. Apart from two main local languages, Portuguese is widely spoken and French is the most spoken second language. English is spoken at hotels and by some guides.

All the islands can be visited, although access to Annobón is really only possible from mainland Equatorial Guinea or by private yacht charter from São Tomé. Access to São Tomé is via TAP Air Portugal flights, which depart from Lisbon, or with Air Gabon, which departs from Libreville. Libreville is connected to most African cities and to Europe, via Paris. Access to Príncipe is by air via São Tomé. Apart from two main local languages, Portuguese is widely spoken and French is the most spoken second language. English is spoken at hotels and by some guides.

A closer look at São Tomé and Príncipe

Birding Sites
Most of the endemics on São Tomé and Príncipe are easy to see and can be seen around the main towns. See Top Sites below for details of other sites.

When to visit
All the endemics in São Tomé and Príncipe can be seen at any time of year. However, access to the southwestern forests in São Tomé will be difficult in the rainy season. The periods June to August and December-January are the best as they are the two drier periods.

AccommodationAccommodation in São Tomé is varied but not necessarily cheap. It ranges from the up-market Marlin Beach Hotel http://www.marlinbeach.com/ and the Hotel Miramar http://www.sao-tome.com/ costing upwards of US$100 per night to small pensions. In between there are several small, well-equipped establishments that cost around US$50 per person per night including breakfast. For long stays, renting a place can be more economic.

Accommodation in Príncipe is limited to the up-market Bom Bom Island Resort http://www.bom-bom.com/ and a couple of pensions in town. Pensão Romar is recommended (US$1 per person per night including breakfast). It has a very special atmosphere, and friendly service. Its balcony bewitches most of those that have passed by. To top it all, Zôzô is an excellent cook (ask her for local dishes which she excels at).

Hazards
Malaria is the main health concern in the islands. Follow the prophylaxis regime recommended by your doctor and take care to avoid mosquito bites especially at dusk. The use of repellent and a mosquito net at night is strongly recommended. The golden rule is to consider any difference in your physical well being as a possible symptom of malaria, and go and get it checked it in a clinic or hospital.

The only other major hazard in the forest is black cobras. Initially introduced to reduce rat populations in the plantations, these snakes have spread into the forest. They generally get out of your way and there have been no reported cases of birders having problems. However, take care crossing fallen logs and dry streambeds where they like to bask in the early morning. Contact your doctor if you require advice on snakebites.

As in any tropical area care should be taken with water consumption. When in towns drink bottled water or use sterilising tablets or drops of iodine to be safe. Water direct from rivers in the southwest is probably safe.

Birding and which field guides to use
Despite being virtually unknown by birders, RDSTP and Bioko have their own field guides. The Christy & Clarke guide is the most up to date and is available from http://www.nhbs.com and the Sargeant bird-finding guide, although fairly old, still holds good. Abbé René de Naurois volumes cover both islands and are a summary of his 20+ years research on the island`s birds. General information and species lists are provided on the Gulf of Guinea web site http://www.ggcg.st

Further information, NGOs & Links
By far and away the best resource for those interested in the different groups of plants and animals is the Gulf of Guinea Conservation Group website at http://www.ggcg.st. Here you can find information about the different islands, species lists and a whole host of information about living and working in the Gulf of Guinea. This web site is maintained from São Tomé and there is also an informal e-mail discussion list that can be joined. Further details can be obtained from info@ggcg.st. The ECOFAC site at http://www.ecofac.org, has also useful information and a link to the Christy & Clarke guide.

The travel agency Mistral Voyages (mvoyages@cstome.net ); with an office in São Tomé, can help you organise your trip.

For further information about the country, people, language and customs the following sites are of use: http://www.uns.st/uns/links.html Contains a good list of links regarding São Tomé and Príncipe.