The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

European Bee-eater Merops apiaster ©Steve Arlow Website
Birding Jordan

With much attention focused on neighbouring Israel, information for birders about Jordan has been sadly lacking. The publication of Ian Andrew’s excellent book in 1995 The Birds of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan and his Birding in Jordan website (see link below) helped put Jordan on the birding map. Ian worked in Jordan for a number of years and collected together records from the small number of birdwatchers and tour companies who had previously visited this fabulous and underwatched country.

Ornithologically, the main difference between birding in Jordan and in Israel, is that you have to find the birds yourself. In contrast with Aqaba (Jordan’s main Red Sea port); very few birds must pass unseen in Eilat (especially during peak migration seasons). With less than a mile between them, the same birds must occur. Any birder in Jordan therefore has a greater chance of ornithological glory! The few Jordanian birdwatchers can often expect to discover new birds for their country or at least major rarities.

The difference in the level of coverage is reflected in the bird lists of these countries – over 500 recorded for Israel and around 415 for Jordan, although, of course, Israel has a relatively long Mediterranean coast too. Another tempting feature for would-be visitors is the habitat. Eilat regulars are often dismayed by the continued development in the resort, whereas the habitat in Aqaba is fantastic with irrigated allotments running for about one kilometre along the coast and an increasingly famous sewage works (not least because it can almost be viewed from Eilat – but not quite!)

Ornithological understanding has increased substantially since the 1994 when the first of many expeditions took place to establish baseline criteria for Jordan’s wildlife organised by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature in Jordan. These were the first expeditions since Guy Mountford et al visited the country in the 1960s. (Try getting hold of the excellent account of this expedition – Portrait of a Desert). Much of these baseline data were collected by Jordanian/European survey teams including many bird specific surveys. An RSCN arrangement with the RSPB staff sabbatical system has led to a useful stream of more than willing volunteers to spend upwards of a month birdwatching in this fascinating country. These surveys are on-going so anyone wishing to help should contact the RSCN research@rscn.org.jo or look at their Website

Although there are plenty of new places to explore in Jordan, there are a number of sites definitely on the birding trail. More details can be found in Ian Andrew’s excellent book available through his website, and the website itself. The country’s position at the top of the rift valley means that migrant birds can be found almost anywhere at the right time of year.

Starting in Amman, most birding itineraries explore the country in two stages. Firstly, heading from the city into the eastern desert, one can expect to start seeing typical desert species but there are several specific sites well worth exploring. The first important stop is Wadi Al Butm – a tree lined wadi worth checking for migrants. Among the more common migrant species, birds such as White-throated Robin and Striated Scops Owl have been reported.

The next stop is Azraq. Now a shadow of its former glories due to water extraction, this desert oasis has enjoyed substantial habitat restoration in the last few years and is now a must for passing birders. With a visitor centre, boardwalk through the reeds and hides, visitors can view the pools easily and can expect to find a good range of wetland birds and passage migrants. The lack of cover in the surrounding stony desert means Azraq pulls in the birds and is responsible for some excellent records in recent years. Highlights have included Menetries Warbler, Egyptian Nightjar and Red-wattled Lapwing. When flooded, the low-lying desert (Qa) to the east of the reserve can hold massive numbers of waterfowl and waders.

Eleven kilometres from Azraq is another RSCN reserve – Shaumari. This is another site able to pull in migrant birds since it again offers substantial cover (scrub and woodland) amid the surrounded desert. The road leading to this oasis allows birders good access to the desert too with Larks and Cream-coloured Coursers regularly seen.

Heading further east, the road passes through the town of As Safawi. From here eastwards, you enter the basalt boulder desert. About 9k east of the town, among the more typical larks and wheatears it is worth looking out for the so-called Basalt Wheatear probably a dark form of Mourning Wheatear. The dark morph Desert Lark (subspecies annae) can also be found here. The boulder desert means this area is hard to explore and too far from the road without a four-wheel drive. However, finding these birds near to the road isn’t usually too much trouble. The desert near As Safawi also contains a recently discovered (1999) Ammoperdix partridge that could be an undescribed race of See-see rather than the Sand Partridge – but more research is needed.

After exploring the eastern desert, birders usually venture south of the capital into the Jordan Valley. The first stop is usually the Dead Sea where one can find, hardly surprisingly, nesting Dead Sea Sparrows. However the whole valley area down to As Safi near the southern tip of the Dead Sea is irrigated and provides extensive unexplored habitat. Heading further south, the wadis extending down from the rift margin can be explored using the roads near Fidan. Until recently, access along this road required military permission. Now things are much more straightforward to the east of the road. Caution should be taken around military camps and to the west of the road (the border side). You may be questioned if you wander too close to camps but usually out of curiosity. Best to ask first. This area provides the bird with the usually desert species: Temminck’s, Horned, Hoopoe and Desert Larks. Dunn’s Larks have also been found here [in 1994].

Heading down to the port of Aqaba, you’re in migrant heaven! At the right times of year you can expect Collared Flycatchers to be perching on postcard stands, Thrush Nightingales contact calling from under parked cars and explosions of Levant’s Sparrowhawks from bushes and trees as you pass them. No different to Eilat in this respect but in Aqaba, you will probably be the birder finding these birds. As previously mentioned, the coastal strip is a series of irrigated allotments full of warblers, chats and pipits. Aqaba also has a fantastic sewage works! A sewage works at the top of the Red Sea has to be worth a visit! It is true to say that many of Jordan’s rarest sightings come from this site. Birds are welcome but its situation close to the border makes this a sensitive military area. One has to seek permission to gain access but it is well worth the hassle. Recent highlights include Painted Snipe, Cotton Teal, Pink-backed Pelican, Grey-headed Gull and Pacific Golden Plover.

North of Aqaba is Wadi Rum. This is a spectacular area of vast sandstone mesas up to 800m tall. This site has great ornithological significance in Western Palaearctic terms being the only reliable breeding site for Verreaux’s Eagle. Recent birdwatching records suggest that there may be another pair or two in Jordan but your best bet to see this magnificent eagle is to scan the cliffs behind Wadi Rum resthouse. In recent years, seeing a Verreaux’s Eagle has been less than certain after an adult bird was found dead. Fortunately at least two birds have been seen in the last year or two raising hopes that this species maintains it status in Jordan.

Moving further north on the Kings Highway which runs along the rift valley margins, one can visit The RSCN reserve at Dana. This site offers the visitor some of the most spectacular views in the country, looking out over Wadi Araba. Wadi Dana itself leads down into Fidan mentioned earlier but here, at an altitude of 1500m, the habitat is very different. The Barra forest is made up of oak and juniper and holds species such as Tristram’s Serin, Cretzschmar’s Bunting and Sinai Rosefinch. The rocky wadis contain Hume’s, Eagle and Scops Owl. The campsite at Dana is also an excellent place to watch raptor migration. Two Verreaux’s Eagles have been seen here annually since 1999 and with earlier sightings of both adult and juvenile birds, one would think that this area could well hold another pair. It is a wonderful place to stay and most birders spend at least a night here. This is why there are so many excellent bird records from the site. Most recent additions to the Dana list have been Crested Honey Buzzard and Black Bushchat.

There are many other sites not mentioned here as this is a small sample of some of the key areas. Jordan is one of the most welcoming and safe countries in the Middle East and also very easy to explore. There are several RSCN reserves encompassing a wide range of habitats. Information about visiting and travelling in Jordan can be found in the websites mentioned below. Whilst in Jordan, it is worth putting aside time to visit some cultural sites. Even the most bird focussed visitor would be hard pressed not to find Petra and Jerash breathtaking. Of course, these sites are not without their birding attractions too!

Contributors
  • Dr Fares Khoury

    Jordan | avijordan2000@yahoo.com

  • Richard Bashford

    | Richard.Bashford@rspb.org.uk

Number of Species
  • Number of bird species: 415

    As at July 2018

    National Bird: Sinai Rosefinch Carpodacus synoicus

Checklist
  • iGoTerra Checklist

    iGoTerra Checklist
    Fatbirder Associate iGoTerra offers the most comprehensive and up to date birds lists on the web
Useful Reading

  • Birds of the Middle East

    | By Richard Porter, Simon Aspinall, A Birch, John Gale, Mike Langman, Brian E Small | Christopher Helm | 2010 | 384 pages, 176 colour plates, 636 colour distribution maps | ISBN: 9780713676020 Buy this book from NHBS.com
  • The Birds of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

    | By Ian J Andrews | Ian Andrews | 1995 | Paperback | 200 pages, 160 photos, 73 illus, 17 distribution maps, migration timing charts | ISBN: 9780952497806 Buy this book from NHBS.com
Organisations
  • BirdLife

    Website
    The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN) is an independent national organization devoted to the conservation of Jordan's natural resources. RSCN was established in 1966 with His Majesty the late King Hussein as the Honorary President. RSCN has been given the responsibility by the government to care for and protect the Kingdom’s biodiversity. As such, it is one of the few national organizations in the Middle East to be granted such a public mandate. RSCN has gained a wide global fame for its pioneering work in integrating nature conservation programmes with socio-economic development.
  • Jordan Birdwatching Club

    facebook Page
    Group of ornithologists and bird watchers interested in birds of Jordan. A forum to discuss records, status and conservation of birds, and inform about bird watching trips and events in Jordan. The decisions of Jordan Bird Records Committee (JBRC) are also published here
  • Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature

    Website
    Box 6354, Jubeiha-AbuNusseir Circle, Amman 11183 Jordan. + 962 6 5337931 adminrscn@rscn.org.jo Perhaps the most amazing aspect of nature is the power of one. Each animal, each bird, and each plant plays a key role in the cycle of nature. Likewise, each one of us can contribute to the protection of our environment.
  • Wild Jordan

    Facebook Page
    Our main purpose in life is to develop viable nature-based businesses within and around RSCN’s protected areas
Reserves

Abbreviations Key

  • BR Dana

    InformationSatellite View
    Dana is located in the southern district of Tafila, about 200 kilometers south of Amman. Due to its wide variety of climate zones (it has mountain heights of 1500 meters and descends to the deserts of Wadi Araba), it is rich in wildlife. But, until recently, development and degradation threatened its biodiversity.…
  • Jordan's Nature Reserves

    InformationSatellite View
    Many of the birds for which the oasis was renowned are coming back and special boardwalks and bird hides have been constructed to enable visitors to see and enjoy them…
  • NR Azraq Wetlands

    InformationSatellite View
    Shaumari Wildlife Reserve is located in the eastern Jordanian desert, close to Azraq Wetland Reserve. The geology comprises desert wadis making up 65% of the area and Hammada areas covered in black flint forming 35% of the reserve. Founded in 1975, Shaumari was founded for the wildlife in the desert area. One of the main goals of the reserve has been to bring back locally extinct species, notably the Arabian oryx, into the wild.
  • NR Wadi Mujib

    InformationSatellite View
    Some iconic and endangered bird species include Lammergeier, Sooty Falcon, Sand Partidge, Hume's Owl, Blackstart, Dead Sea Sparrow and more. Many carnivores also inhabit the various vegetation zones in Mujib, such as the striped hyena and the Syrian wolf. One of the most important animals in Mujib is the Nubian ibex, a large mountain goat which became threatened as a result of over-hunting.
  • WR Shaumari

    InformationSatellite View
    Some of the species include Arabian oryx, Somali ostriches, Persian onagers (an Asian wild ass from Iran) and gazelles.
  • Wetland of International Importance

    WebpageSatellite View
    Jordan presently has 1 site designated as a Wetland of International Importance, with a surface area of 7,372 hectares.
Trip Reports
  • 2014 [04 April] - Colin Mackenzie-Grieve

    Report
    I have just returned from a short family holiday in Jordan. Mainly non-birding but while we were in Aqaba I did visit Aqaba Bird Observatory. Before I went, I was able to find out very little online about access to the observatory, requirements for permits etc. The few websites and email addresses that I could find proved to be out of date and no longer functioning. So a brief update may be helpful...
  • 2016 [12 December] - David Karr - Azraq Wetland Reserve and Eastern ‘Basalt’ Desert

    PDF Report
    A day trip from Amman to visit the Wetland Reserve managed by the Royal Society for Conservation ofNature (RSCN) at Azraq (approx. 100kms east of Amman – one hour drive) followed by an extensiondriving east into the Basalt Desert near As Safawi (another 50kms) with three intermittent stops at threedesert wadis (valleys) along the way. The more common desert species were encountered, with thenotable exception of our main target, ‘Basalt Wheatear’ (researchers opine is probably a black morphform of Eastern Mourning Wheatear, Oenanthe lugens)*.
  • 2016 [12 December] - David Karr - Wadi Musa and Petra

    PDF Report
    Our primary quarry, (apart from the glorious 2000 year-old Nabataean ruins), was Sinai Rosefinch and Fan-tailed Raven, both of which were eventually seen without too much difficulty. Birdlife however, was fairly Spartan, possibly due to the cold and breezy weather...
  • 2016 [12 December] - David Karr - Wadi Musa and PetraDana Conservation Area

    PDF Report
    A self-guided weekend trip to the Dana Biosphere Reserve of Jordan (2.5 hrs drive south from Amman).According to the Wikipedia entry: “Dana Biosphere Reserve is Jordan's largest nature reserve, located insouth-central Jordan. Dana Biosphere Reserve was founded in 1989 in the area in and around the Danavillage and Wadi Dana comprising 308 square kilometres”
  • 2017 [01 January] - David Karr - Aqaba and Wadi Rum

    PDF Report
    A weekend trip from Amman to Jordan’s only coastal port, Aqaba, on the Red Sea, (367kms south) witha day visit to the Aqaba Bird Observatory and an overnight excursion to a Bedouin Camp at Wadi Rum.In all, 59 species seen in winter with birding highlights: Green Bee-eater, Arabian Babbler, IndianSilverbill, Sinai Rosefinch, Imperial Eagle, White-crowned, Northern, Eastern Mourning, and thesomewhat elusive, Hooded Wheatear.
  • 2017 [05 May] - Alex Schouten

    PDF Report
    ...as we were scanning the bushes on the slope we saw a small yellowish bird feeding on the ground just 10 meter from us: a Syrian serin! Unfortunately before I could take a picture a schoolbus with school children disturbed our sighting and the bird flew away...
  • 2017 [05 May] - Erik Forsyth & Cuan Rush - Egypt & Petra

    PDF Report
    ...An early start birding around our hotel produced scope looks at a Chukar Partridge posing on a rock and a confiding pair of Palestine Sunbird in the garden. After breakfast we headed for the city of Petra. Petra in Jordan is one of the world’s most remarkable antiquities and regarded as the most astounding ancient city left in the modern world...
  • 2018 [10 October] - Nick Page

    PDF Report
    I rarely write trip reports, but there are so few on Jordan available, especially recent, and we want to encourage others to visit this beautiful, friendly and safe destination. Under-birded (we met no other birders), overshadowed by Israel but offering comparable birding.
  • 2018 [12 December] - Daan Drukker

    PDF Report
    With notes how to see more species in spring, during migration and suggestions for a combination with a visit to Israel...
  • 2019 [01 January] - Sofia Broström

    PDF Report
    My son and I visited Jordan during the “marbaniyeh”, i.e., the forty coldest days of winter stretching from the winter solstice to about January 30. We were, however, very lucky with the weather, had no snow or rain and sunny or partially sunny skies every day.
Other Links
  • Birdwatching

    Website
    Bird-watchers from all over the world have started organizing week-long trips to Jordan to enjoy the sight of some rare species of indigenous birds
  • Birdwatching in Jordan

    Website
    Jordan has a unique location, nestled at the tip of the Arabian Peninsula where the edges of three continents overlap: Asia, Africa and Europe. This small country lies at the heart of major bird migratory routes and has a diverse geology and natural landscape as well, which hosts a large variety of ora and fauna including numerous bird species. Remnants of the rich history of the area are scattered throughout the entire country, and thus most of the main birding sites in Jordan are within or near major tourism attractions.
  • Wildlife

    Website
    The numbers of migrants have decreased as Azraq has grown drier, yet even today up to 220 migratory species continue to transit through Jordan on their journey north or south. The approximately 150 species which are indigenous to Jordan seem not to have been affected greatly by the great drought of the 1980s

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