Stewart Island/Rakiura

Stewart Island / Rakiura is New Zealand’s third-largest island, located 30 kilometres (16 nautical miles) south of the South Island, across the Foveaux Strait. It is a roughly triangular island with a total land area of 1,746 km2 (674 square miles). Its 164-kilometre (102 mile) coastline is deeply creased by Paterson Inlet (east), Port Pegasus (south), and Mason Bay (west). The island is generally hilly (rising to 980 metres or 3,220 feet at Mount Anglem) and densely forested. The geography of Stewart Island varies, with windswept sub-Antarctic terrain at the southernmost end, long golden sandy beaches, rivers, sheltered inlets, rugged coastline and ranges, and lush rain forest. Its position and geography creates its own microclimate, particularly on the north eastern aspect, sheltered from weather from the south by the internal geography of the island. This aspect has many sheltered bays teeming with sea life and lush, rain forest, rich with bird and plant life, and is the site of Stewart Island’s only town, Oban on the harbour of Halfmoon Bay.

Almost all the island is owned by the New Zealand government, and around 85% of the island is set aside as the Rakiura National Park. Stewart Island’s economy depends on fishing and summer tourism. Its permanent population is just 408 people most of whom live in the settlement of Oban on the eastern side of the island. Ferries connect the settlement to Bluff in the South Island. Stewart Island is part of the Southland District for local government purposes. Rakiura is the Maori name for Stewart Island – meaning the land of the glowing skies for the spectacular sunrises and vibrant sunsets, and the Aurora Australis or southern lights phenomenon lucky visitors may witness.

Birding Stewart Island

It is often referred to as New Zealand’s best kept secret for its unspoilt rain forest and coastline and abundant rare flora and fauna. Flightless birds, including penguins, thrive because there are few introduced predators. It is also known by many as the best place in New Zealand for bird watching because of the number of different species and high population numbers in easily accessible terrain. You will see many of New Zealand’s rarest species at Stewart Island – some not viewable anywhere else in the New Zealand or indeed the world.

Stewart Island’s lush rain forest and sea-life rich shores are home to many species of native bird. Relatively predator free, the main township of Oban enjoys daily encounters with abundant bird life. Tui, Bellbird, Kereru (native pigeon), Fantail and Kaka are everywhere and frequent visitors to homes and gardens. Visitors will most likely have raucous Kaka noisily flying in to see what is on offer, or a curious Weka may wander past. Both these species aren’t shy and will take a snack from your hand! Stewart Island is one of the best paces in New Zealand to spot a kiwi. Kiwi watching tours depart each evening during the season. Some visitors may be lucky enough to see the Stewart Island Kiwi during daylight hours on a hiking trail or in the forest, as Stewart Island Kiwi are uniquely diurnal as well as nocturnal.

Rakiura Track between Little River and Maori Beach ©AlasdairW

There are numerous easy day walks along coast or through forest trails close to Oban town, which vary from a few minutes to a couple of hours duration. Keen hikers can take the Rakiura Track, Southern Circuit or Northwest Circuit of some days duration and a variable level of difficulty.

One of the best places to see many of New Zealand’s forest bird species is on the predator free Ulva Island Sanctuary. You can take a guided tour, or travel independently by a short water taxi trip. Ulva Island’s rain forest trails sing with bird life. You will likely see Tits, Fernbird, the rare Stewart Island Robin and Saddleback and possibly other rare species as well as many Kaka, Bellbird, Tui, Kereru, Parakeets, and Weka. On Ulva Island’s Sandy beaches you will see Oystercatchers, Penguins and other coastal seabirds.

Several endangered species recovery programs operate on Stewart Island and surrounding islands, including part of the Kakapo Recovery Program on Codfish Island. Only 86 Kakapo remained in the world in 2006, when, for the first time, the public were able to view one of these kakapo; ‘Sirocco’ a non-breeding male was transferred to a secure enclosure on Ulva Island for 10 weeks. Viewing trips were held each evening and visitors could get to within a perspex pane of Sirocco. This was a very special event which attracted birders from around the world for a once in a lifetime experience. These days, the only way to see one is to be lucky enough to be one of those volunteers chosen to help with their conservation. By 2022 numbers had risen to 252 birds, back from the brink, but still a long way to go.

Any boat trip – whether to Stewart Island by scheduled ferry or charter boat from Stewart Island will afford viewing of many pelagic species including Albatross, Petrels and Shearwaters (including the Sooty Shearwater, Titi or Muttonbird), as well as Gulls, Terns, Skuas, Cormorants and Penguins. Penguins are a common sight around Halfmoon Bay, and many other bays and coastline. You will see Little Blues swimming at Lonneker’s Beach (a short walk from the township of Oban) and Crested Penguins and the rare and endangered Yellow Eye on coastline and beaches around Patterson Inlet and on Ulva Island.