Republic of Croatia

Croatia is a country in Central and Southeast Europe, on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. It borders Slovenia to the northwest, Hungary to the northeast, Serbia to the east, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro to the southeast, and shares a maritime border with Italy to the west. Its capital and largest city with almost 700,000 residents is Zagreb. Other major urban centres include Split, Rijeka and Osijek. The country spans almost 56,600 km2 (over 21,800 square miles), and has a population of a little over 4 million people. It is a developed country with an advanced high-income economy. Service, industrial sectors, and agriculture dominate the economy. Tourism is a significant source of revenue for the country, with nearly 20 million tourist arrivals annually.

Part of the territory in the extreme south surrounding Dubrovnik is a practical exclave connected to the rest of the mainland by territorial waters, but separated on land by a short coastline strip belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina around Neum. The Pelješac Bridge connects the exclave with mainland Croatia. Elevation ranges from the mountains of the Dinaric Alps with the highest point of the Dinara peak at 6,007 feet, near the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina in the south to the shore of the Adriatic Sea which makes up its entire southwest border. Insular Croatia consists of over a thousand islands and islets varying in size, 48 of which are permanently inhabited. The largest islands are Cres and Krk, each of them having an area of around 405 km2 (156 square miles).

Dinaric Alps – ©Vicuna R CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The hilly northern parts of Hrvatsko Zagorje and the flat plains of Slavonia in the east which is part of the Pannonian Basin are traversed by major rivers such as Danube, Drava, Kupa, and the Sava. The Danube, Europe’s second longest river, runs through the city of Vukovar in the extreme east and forms part of the border with Vojvodina. The central and southern regions near the Adriatic coastline and islands consist of low mountains and forested highlands. Natural resources found in quantities significant enough for production include oil, coal, bauxite, low-grade iron ore, calcium, gypsum, natural asphalt, silica, mica, clays, salt, and hydropower. Karst topography makes up about half of Croatia and is especially prominent in the Dinaric Alps. Croatia hosts deep caves, 49 of which are deeper than 250 m, 14 deeper than 500 m and three deeper than 1,000 m. Croatia’s most famous lakes are the Plitvice lakes, a system of 16 lakes with waterfalls connecting them over dolomite and limestone cascades. The lakes are renowned for their distinctive colours, ranging from turquoise to mint green, grey or blue.

Most of Croatia has a moderately warm and rainy continental climate. Mean monthly temperature ranges between −3 °C in January and 18 °C in July. The coldest parts of the country are Lika and Gorski Kotar featuring a snowy, forested climate at elevations above 3,900 feet. The warmest areas are at the Adriatic coast and especially in its immediate hinterland characterised by Mediterranean climate, as the sea moderates temperature highs. Consequently, temperature peaks are more pronounced in continental areas. Mean annual precipitation ranges between 24 inches) and 140 inches depending on geographic region and climate type. The least precipitation is recorded in the outer islands (Biševo, Lastovo, Svetac, Vis) and the eastern parts of Slavonia. However, in the latter case, rain occurs mostly during the growing season. The maximum precipitation levels are observed in the Dinaric Alps, in the Gorski Kotar peaks of Risnjak and Snježnik.

Birding Croatia

Croatia is divided into two main parts: Firstly, Istria peninsula and the Adriatic seacoast (Dalmatia). Secondly, an Eastern landlocked wing, which is located on the southwestern edge of the Carpathian-basin (incl. Zagorje, Zumberak, Podravina, Turopolje and Slavonia). It can be subdivided into ecoregions based on climate and geomorphology. The country is one of the richest in Europe in terms of biodiversity.

Telašćica Nature Park – ©Ivo Finka CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

There are four regions: The Mediterranean along the coast and in its immediate hinterland, Alpine in most of Lika and Gorski Kotar, Pannonian along Drava and Danube, and Continental in the remaining areas. The most significant are karst habitats which include submerged karst, such as Zrmanja and Krka canyons and tufa barriers, as well as underground habitats. The country contains three ecoregions: Dinaric Mountains mixed forests, Pannonian mixed forests, and Illyrian deciduous forests. Forests are abundant, covering 2,490,000 hectares; 44% of its land area. Other habitat types include wetlands, grasslands, bogs, fens, scrub habitats, coastal and marine habitats.

Croatia hosts 37,000 known plant and animal species, but their actual number is estimated to be between 50,000 and 100,000. More than a thousand species are endemic, especially in Velebit and Biokovo mountains, Adriatic islands and karst rivers. Legislation protects 1,131 species. There are 444 protected areas, encompassing 9% of the country. Those include eight national parks, two strict reserves, and ten nature parks. The most famous protected area and the oldest national park in Croatia is Plitvice Lakes National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Velebit Nature Park is a part of the UNESCO Man and the Biosphere Programme. The strict and special reserves, as well as the national and nature parks, are managed and protected by the central government, while other protected areas are managed by counties.

Geographically (which determines the bird life) Croatia is unique in many ways. The great diversity of bird life and habitats, the remote, high and sometimes very rough mountain ridges, the huge forests, the steep karst terrains, the huge alluvial forests, and the very under watched bird life combines with the fantastic sea-coast, the most translucent sea of the World, the extremely friendly people, the cultural and architectural heritage, such unparalleled cities like the world-famous Dubrovnik or Koper, and last but not least the excellent foods (especially sea-foods) make it one of the best birding destinations in the continent for every keen European birdwatcher. Statistics show that 78 endangered (on a European level) species breed in Croatia and this is more than any other small or medium-sized European country. In fact, Croatia is an ornithological oasis in Europe.

Plitvice Lakes National Park – ©dronepicr CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The Istria peninsula and the Adriatic coastline includes dramatic stretches of almost 2000 km of shoreline and over 1000 dry islands with endless possibility for birding explorations. On the seacoast there are many great estuaries of big rivers from the inland, and the giant watershed in the mountain chains along the whole coastline that instantly rises from sea level to 2500 m. The result of that watershed is karst – almost naked bushy hillsides on the seaside, and densely covered forests on the inland sides. The area gives one of the most diverse bird communities of Europe, especially with its extremely rich Passerine fauna.

Spring resounds to the songs of many warblers, buntings and wheatears. Sardinian-, Orphean- and Subalpine Warblers are very common, as well the Olivaceous too. Olive-tree warbler is more typical for the Southern coastline, while Melodious warblers are especially widespread in the North. Cetti’s Warbler also lives along the coast, while Zitting Cisticola is possible only at the lagoons of the Istria peninsula, where they are even noisy in the autumn too. This is the only area for Bonelli’s warbler too, but the latter lives in a different, very special habitat on the warm hillsides. Black-eared Wheatear is much more common than the Common! You can also find Blue Rock Thrush everywhere. Common Rockthrush widespread, but much more rare and shy.

The rocky walls attract many other interesting birds, like the Rock Dove, Crag Martin and the lovely Rock Nuthatch. Alpine Swift scream through the deep gorges, and with luck, especially at the southern part you can find the differently flying view of the Pallid Swift too. The high ridges hold the main population of the lovely and very friendly Alpine Choughs, which visits the lower settlements in the wintertime. This part is also the home of one of the most spectacular Croatian bird, the Rock Partridge, and the extremely lovely Alpine Accentor, probably the friendliest bird of the European avifauna.

Among other specialties worth a mention are the huge populations of the very common Cirl and Black-headed Buntings. Ortolan Bunting is frequent, while Rock Bunting lives usually on the northern coastline, however I suspect it is more common than the records suggest. Sombre Tits and Red-rumped Swallows live in the south up to the Velebit range, the latter is in territorial expansion now, and it is even possible to see on the Istria peninsula. Calandra Lark, Short-toed Lark, Kentish Plover, Tawny Pipit and Stone Curlew mainly inhabit the dry islands along the coast. Some very nice and rich sweet-water habitat adorns the area too. Vrana Lake, Plitvice and Krka National Parks with hundreds of waterfalls are among the most beautiful places of Croatia. Krka is a breeding place for Bonelli’s Eagle, while Lake Vrana is important wintering ground for water birds with sometimes more than 20,000 birds. There is a list over 240 species, and you can find some really interesting birds, like Spanish Sparrow, Yellow Wagtail (race feldegg); Moustached Warbler, Pygmy Cormorant, many herons and waterfowl, and last but not least Eagle Owls. Red-backed Shrike and Woodchat Shrike are very common here, Lesser Grey Shrike, Nightjar, Scops and Little Owl are very widespread too.

Lake Vrana – ©Miroslav Vajdic CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Among the most special birds you can find are the enormous Griffon Vulture, which used to be very common, but is now restricted to the northern archipelago, including Cres, where there is a rehabilitation centre for the species, and the natural population is still over 70 pairs. The species is unfortunately extinct from the famous Paklenica National Park of the Velebit Mts. together with the former breeder Egyptian Vultures. Lanner Falcon is rare, some pairs live at the very southern edge of the country, as it is the same for Bonelli’s Eagle too. The most beautiful raptor of the country is probably the Eleonora’s Falcon which inhabit many small islands, especially around Vis and Korcula Islands. These islands have breeding places of the internationally endangered Audouin’s Gull too.

Inland part of Dalmatia (east of the watershed ridge of the coastal mountains) is covered with huge, completely untouched forests, which is among the greatest intact woodland heritage of all of Europe. In the wet valleys (poljes) we find rich wetland habitats, grassy plains and gallery forests. The area is good for some raptors, including Short-toed Eagle, Golden Eagle and such Passerines as the beautiful Red-breasted Flycatcher. The pine forest holds a significant population of Three-toed Woodpecker, and some difficult to find birds, such as Hazel Grouse and Capercaillie. White-backed Woodpecker are also definitely rare; they live only at the northern edge of the big forest area, while others, including Middle-Spotted Woodpecker and Black Woodpecker are relatively common. Ural and Tengmalm’s Owls are there but rare and difficult to find. Nutcracker is common in the pine forests together with many other Pine-tree loving bird species (Coal Tit, Firecrest and Goldcrest, etc.). The high grassy plains and the nearby rocky walls are ideal habitat for Shore Lark, Alpine Accentor, Water Pipit and for some Wallcreeper and vagrant Egyptian Vultures from Macedonia. It would be nice to find some breeding Dotterel here.

North-eastern Croatia, which belongs to the Carpathian-basin, has a landscape that is totally different. On the left side of the river Sava downstream from Zagreb, several large field-depressions have been formed. They are Crnec polje, Lonjsko polje, Mokro polje, Crnac polje and Jelas polje. In the course of millennia, life in these depressions has developed under the influence of water. Most of the year the fields were periodically flooded, depending on the Sava water level. The great river plains of the Sava, Drava and Danube rivers have the greatest wetland gallery forests with extensive areas of broadleaved alluvial-forests in of all Europe. This is mixed with other natural water bodies, fishpond systems and arable lands. Lonjsko Polje area at the Sava river hold a very big population of Lesser Spotted Eagle and Pygmy Cormorants, while Kopacki-rit (Kopacevo-marshes) National Park in the north-eastern corner is truly worthy of its designation as a World Heritage Site with its unique landscape. Probably the last truly ancient gallery forest of the Old Continent with oak and willow trees that are hundreds of years old. It is full with White-tailed Eagles, Black Kites, Corncrakes, Ferruginous Ducks and Black Storks.

Kopacki Rit Nature Reserve – ©Misalalic CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The site holds more than 20,000 water birds in the wintertime, and also some Greater Spotted Eagles. All these rivers are full of reed beds (Marsh Terns, Penduline- and Bearded Tits); and also, with heronries (Bittern, Little Bittern, Night, Squacco, Grey, Purple Herons); and there are many Egrets, Spoonbills, Greylag Geese and some Glossy Ibis too. Unfortunately, some typical plain raptor species are on the verge of extinction. Only a very few Red-footed Falcons, Saker and Imperial Eagles breed in the area, while Levant Sparrowhawk and Lesser Kestrel are probably already extinct. The area is full of Golden Orioles, Kingfishers, Bee-eaters, and Hoopoes, and there are still some Rollers to adorn our list too. To complete our journey in Croatia it is well worth a visit to the Drava River area, where we can find breeding colonies of Little Terns, Little Ringed Plovers, and Common Sandpipers.

Croatia gives an opportunity for some pelagic and sea-birding too. Cory’s Shearwater, Mediterranean Shearwater, Storm-petrel breed on small islands, as well the Shag, but on ferry or boat trips you can even see other species like Eleonora’s Falcon, Swifts, or accidentally such mega-rarities like Great Northern or Yellow-billed Loons in the wintertime. Croatia is most famous among herpetologist, but lovers of mammals, butterflies and dragonflies are also able to find a great variety of species.